Boulevard

photo - boulevardrestaurant.com

Boulevard, Embarcadero, Dinner
Valentine's Day 2016 

P:
Deviled Crab Bisque 
Lamb T-Bone, Served Off the Bone

Nettle & Parsley Fingerling Potatoes, Roasted King Trumpet Mushroom, Erbette Chard, Hibiscus & Fig Mint Jelly
Red Velvet Layer Cake

J:

Hudson Valley Foie Gras

Wild Petrale Sole & Salt Spring Mussels
Crushed Yukon Potato with Herbs & Cultured Butter, Savoy Cabbage 

Butterscotch ‘Pudding’


Notes:
I was very happy to finally get to try Boulevard, a San Francisco institution of sorts.  It was Valentine's Day, but that didn't seem to be apparent here.  There was no "special" menu that night (the "special" menu is often the norm on this holiday of love and massacres) and the bustling space was decidedly more energetic than what you might find with your run-of-the-mill romantic candle-lit dinner.  Those seated at the kitchen bar had a particularly captivating view, and not of their dining partner.  (Had we known of this option in advance, we probably would have asked to sit there.)

I started the evening with a cocktail, because that's what you do in a place like this (more accurately, that's what I do in a place like this).  I ordered foie gras to start; I've had little of it since the banning of its sale was enacted in 2012 (and subsequently lifted in 2015), and I will admit it's a favorite of mine.  It was beautifully seared, adequately sized, properly seasoned, and the poppy seed jam(?) was a uniquely enjoyable accompaniment.  It was a solid, well-executed effort, and I knew then I wouldn't be disappointed with anything that followed.  Shortly after the (empty) plate of foie was whisked away, the "sole" arrived.  (Technically, Petrale sole is in the flounder family, though "sole" offers a better ring.)  Smoky grill marks punctuated the flaky flesh which sat over buttery smashed potatoes and sweet cabbage.  So good, so satisfying, and light enough that there was still room for dessert.  Because, butterscotch pudding (sorry, "pudding").  In the less than five minutes from the time I ordered dessert and its arrival at the table, I had forgotten pudding was in quotes on the menu.  I'm still a little confused by this, admittedly, because the dessert looked and tasted like butterscotch pudding not butterscotch "pudding".  (I'm sure you get the distinction.)  It was good though, rich in flavor and texture; there were some other bits on the plate, most of them unnecessary, but none unwelcome.  Though, you'll note, I can't go into any further detail, because the memory fails (see also, aforementioned "poppy seed jam(?)").  This is why we're here, people.

Patrick thoroughly enjoyed his soup, particularly with all the little garnishes (salmon roe, among them).  His lamb was beautifully cooked and all accompaniments married well.  The only oddity was the "roasted king trumpet mushroom" which turned out to be mushroom, literally in the singular sense, and by that I mean a single slice of roasted king trumpet mushroom.  Strange, in my opinion, but still delicious.  He (I should say we) finished it all off with the Red Velvet Cake, which was incredibly moist with ample layers of cream cheese icing.

We paired delicious wines with each course and our server helped us make good choices.  Some of the wines were a little late to the game, I'd say, though I'm not really complaining.  The food came out of the kitchen incredibly fast.

My takeaway was this: I enjoyed the food and drink very much, but having multiple courses and pairing wines with them requires a pace I don't believe can (or should) be had here (I'm not sure that Patrick shared my hangup in this respect).  I'd definitely like to visit again, but with a different experience in mind.  The chefs and cooks know what they're doing, and next time, we want sit at the kitchen bar and watch.


Just for fun:
An interesting little tidbit about the Audiffred Building, which is the home of Boulevard (from artandarchitecture-sf.com):

The building has a colorful history in San Francisco. The original tenant was the Bulkhead Bar and Coffee Saloon. It is rumored that when the 1906 fire raged in the area, fire crews were sent to dynamite the Audiffred Building in order to slow the pace of the fire. The bartender promised two quarts of whiskey to each man and a horse cart full of wine if they would not destroy the building. The building was saved, and along with the Ferry Building, was one of the few waterfront survivors of the quake and fire.